A “kaiho” is an artificial island built in the sea, equipped with artillery to prevent enemy invasion from the ocean. Tokyo Bay has three such forts: the First, Second, and Third Kaiho Forts, located between Kanonzaki in Yokosuka and Cape Futtsu in Futtsu City, intended to protect Tokyo Bay from foreign ships.
The forts were initially planned to compensate for the limited range of cannons at the time, which couldn’t completely secure Tokyo Bay. However, by the time they were completed, cannon range had improved, making these artificial islands essentially obsolete.
In 2018, the Second Kaiho Fort was approved by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism for tourism purposes, and in 2019, private tour operators began offering landing tours. I joined this tour through Hato Bus. Recently, I’ve become quite interested in Hato Bus tours, and after spotting this web-only tour option, I immediately signed up.
For the Hato Bus tour, we gathered at 9:30 am at the Hato Bus stop on the Marunouchi South Exit side of Tokyo Station.
Arriving a bit early, I had breakfast at the Starbucks in KITTE Marunouchi, right by the Hato Bus stop. I enjoyed a tall drip coffee and a bacon and spinach quiche while passing the time reading on my Kindle Oasis.
As the meeting time approached, boarding began, and we sat in our pre-assigned seats. Two tour buses headed for Yokosuka.
Since the weather was poor, the tour staff provided us with ponchos, as umbrellas are prohibited on the Second Kaiho Fort. We were allowed to keep the ponchos as souvenirs.
The bus parked at Yokosuka Port Market, and we walked to nearby Mikasa Park. Once there, we entered the battleship Mikasa and enjoyed Yokosuka Navy Curry.
The curry was served in a room supposedly once used by officers, located in an area usually off-limits to the public. According to the guide, this area is currently only open for Hato Bus tours.
The curry itself was quite standard, accompanied by salad and milk. Seating was surprisingly cramped.
When I finished, the words “Thank you” appeared on the plate.
We had some time to explore inside the battleship Mikasa and stroll around the park. There was an event with various vehicles on display, including Ground Self-Defense Force vehicles, police cars, and fire trucks, which children were enjoying.
The tour continued from Mikasa Pier on a small cruise ship. Boats to Sarushima Island also depart from here.
Passing by Sarushima, we headed toward the Second Kaiho Fort.
Before long, the Second Kaiho Fort came into view.
A Japan Coast Guard vessel was anchored nearby.
Near the landing area, there was an inscription reading “イ,” though it was unclear what it originally said due to the erosion of preceding characters.
Upon landing, we were given audio guides. We tuned them to the channel indicated by the guide, allowing us to clearly hear their commentary, free from wind interference. The earphones were disposable, and we could keep them if we wished.
Before landing, we were reminded to “leave only footprints and take only photos.” We were also told that while photos could be shared on social media, we should be mindful of other participants’ privacy. The tour guide, however, didn’t mind being in photos. We were also prohibited from photographing the firefighting training facility of the Marine Disaster Prevention Center nearby and reminded to stick to group activities.
One of the first sights we encountered upon landing.
Remains of artillery and cannon installations were visible.
Beside the gun emplacement, there was a lighthouse.
Electricity was supplied by solar panels installed nearby.
An area close by showed part of a collapsed seawall.
This sign, introduced by the guide as the main photo spot, was especially popular. It was a great photo opportunity to capture proof of our rare access to the Second Kaiho Fort, typically off-limits.
While some bricks were crumbling, I noticed fiber optic cables, indicating the place is still under some form of management.
Our second designated photo spot featured the “FORT NO.2” sign and the lighthouse.
Some of the bricks bore symbols, indicating their place of manufacture. Here, some bricks were marked with a cherry blossom symbol.
Passing through the solar panels, we reached the main area of the Second Kaiho Fort.
This led us to the primary structure, the anti-aircraft command post, although it was only visible from the outside.
Returning along the shoreline, we came across brick walls, built from over-fired bricks to enhance waterproofing. Iron hooks embedded in the bricks were believed to have been imported for cable installations.
After touring the fort, we departed. We experienced significant rocking after a tanker passed by, leaving me with one foot soaked in seawater.
Following the Second Kaiho Fort, we had shopping time at Yokosuka Port Market. I bought a “Scaley-chan” plush as a souvenir and took a commemorative photo with Hato Bus. As the entrance fee for Mikasa had been reduced, we received hand towels as a compensation for the price difference.
